one in, one out.

I know the Christmas decorations have come down and I've promised lots of exciting stories from my trip to Scotland. But I just can't move on without one last Christmas market story. 

During Andrea's first week we went on a Christmas market marathon. Six markets in five days and I think I found my limit (trust me, I never realized I'd reach it!). One particular market, though, presented a very unique opportunity. 

The Münster Weihnachtsmarkt is actually 5 little markets spread out around the city center. And the night before we went to Münster we received a tip to head to the Kiepenkerl Markt and ask for "ein drin, ein draußen," which literally means "one in, one out."

Before I continue, you should know that sometimes I encounter things that live so up to absurd American stereotypes of Germany (singing along to David Hasselhoff over breakfast, ordering a beer before 1pm, things like that) that I just can't help but chuckle. This moment was one of them.

"One in, one out" is a shot - so what could possibly be so stereotypically German? Oh you know, just mini sausages hanging out of the shot. Well, one sausage in the shot and one out, to be exact (get it?!). So here's the drill: you eat one würstchen (sausage), drink the liquor, then finish it up with the other würstchen. 

What enhanced the experience even more was the the man at the stand. When I asked him to take a picture of Andrea and I with our sausage shots, he insisted he photograph the entire experience. So, thanks to the "ein drin, ein draußen" stand man, here is our first sausage shot experience. I hope the pictures help strengthen everyone's ridiculously inaccurate stereotypes of Germany!
 

*

*Lawlz, that smile! 

Grandma got runover by a reindeer

That was all I could think while at the Christmas market in Cologne last weekend. 

Being one of the largest cities in Germany, Cologne has a few different Christmas markets sprinkled around the city.  My adventures took me two of them - one at the cathedral and one in the Altstadt, or old city. 

I wish I could tell you all about how beautiful the market at the cathedral was with its tent of Christmas lights. Or cute and traditional the Altstadt market was. But all I really can to say about my visit to the Christmas markets in Cologne is that they were PACKED full. 

I've seriously never seen so many people in one place in my life. I didn't really get to see anything in Cologne besides the back of the head of the person in front of me. I sort of went with the flow of the masses as I fought my way around the markets. I was in Cologne for about 2 hours and I'm pretty sure I spent an hour and a half just trying to figure out where to take my next step. Even in my pictures, when trying to capture the bright Christmas decor all around, I just ended up with some lights shining above the sea of people I was fighting through.  

I want a Hippopotamus for Christmas

Ok, so maybe there wasn't a hippopotamus, but I did find some pretty unusual things at the Weihnachtsmarkt in Bonn last weekend. 

The award for most disturbing piece of decoration goes to the giant moving, talking moose head on this Glühwein stand. I wish I could tell you what he said, but I think when I realized this life-sized mounted moose head was actually speaking and moving I was sent into such a deep state of shock I repressed any memories more specific than the sheer befuddlement I felt. 

The award for most original Christmas market stand theme goes to Löffel Julius. 

Löffel means spoon in German, and that is exactly what Julius sold in his stand. But not just any old spoons. Löffel Julius sold only the finest wooden spoons of all shapes and sizes. It was the kind of marketing that made you realize you'd been searching for the perfect wooden spoon your whole life, you just never knew it till you gazed upon all Löffel Julius had to offer. Who knew there could be such variety in the wooden spoon business? Löffel Julius, that's who.

And the award for most culturally inappropriate stand goes to the Churros stand. Now granted, my only previous knowledge of Churros is from Taco Bell, but I think that sends a pretty clear message that they're - if nothing else - definitely not German. Ok, so there are plenty of stands at Christmas markets everywhere that sell food and goods that are from other countries and cultures. But those stands usually use the exotic nature of their product as a selling point. Except for a little fine print on the wrapper, there was absolutely nothing identifying this delightful snack as non-German in origin. They would totally have you believe Churros are the your common, everyday German treat. Don't be fooled - they're not! But they were still delicious!

The most wonderful drink of the year

You might have noticed at this point that the Christmas markets are all located outside. And as common sense might have led you to believe that Germany can be quite cold in December. So standing outside for hours at a time to enjoy the markets can get a little bit chilly, to say the least. And when you're moving your feet just to make sure they're still there, the last thing you want to do is drink a cold beer. 

But fear not! After centuries (give or take) of Christmas market practice, those clever Germans devised a way to keep you hydrated without turning your stomach into a giant beersicle. 

Glühwein literarally translates to "glowing wine," and the reality definitely lives up to the name.This ingenious beverage is a staple for the holiday season. And the concept is wonderfully simple. It is a wine (traditionally red, but I have seen a white variation here and there) with different spices added (I could look them up, but that would ruin the magic that gives Glühwein its incomparable taste) and served warm. It is basically impossible to go to Christmas market without enjoying a mug of Glühwein. Especially if you're me. 

Speaking of the mugs. Each Christmas market makes their own unique mug  and they are totally free for the taking, if you so please. 

Of course, by free, I mean you have to pay a deposit when you buy your drink if you don't return your mug, you don't get your deposit back. Some people might point out that you could just buy a clean mug for the regular deposit (usually about 2.50€), but I prefer to keep the mugs I've enjoyed a drink from. It's a bit of a rite of passage for me. And as a person who doesn't often buy souvenirs, I'm all about the Glühwein mugs. I have one from every Christmas market I've ever visited from my past 2 Christmases in Europe and this year's collection is coming along quite nicely as well. 

Glühwein is definitely one of my favorite parts of the Christmas markets. Even if it's snowing and below freezing and all you want to do is stay inside in the warmth, the promise of enjoying a Glühwein at the Christmas market is all the motivation I need to head out on a cold December night! 

I'm dreaming of a wet Christmas

When I last saw Gemma at the beginning of November, we decided our next rendezvous should be at a halfway point to enjoy a Christmas market together. And it turns out there is a pretty good half way point between our two cities - Frankfurt

On that Sunday morning not so long ago, I woke up at 5:30 am (something I'd only do for Gemma) to make the 3 hour journey down to Frankfurt. Of course, when one is relying on Deutsche Bahn to get your around, you have to prepared to stop randomly at any given place for over an hour and arrive at your final destination almost 2 hours late. But after that, minor hiccup, our visit to the Frankfurt Weihnachtsmarkt went smoothly. 


We got to enjoy each other's company... 

the festive scenery...

and the rain. 

That's right, it rained the entire day. But don't you worry, this did not dampen anyone's Christmas spirits. If you thought a little precipitation could keep the Christmas market enthusiasts away, you would be completely wrong. As we made our way back to the train station at the end of our day together, it was through a sea of umbrellas and an otherwise uninterrupted Christmas market atmosphere! 

baby, it's cold outside

Last year's Christmas season is defined in my memory by insane amounts of snow. But, ironically, the coldest I can remember was actually one without snow. I remember it so well, too, because it was the day Gemma and I visited the Christmas Market in Nürnberg. 

You may notice that the market in Nürnberg is called a "Christkindlesmarkt" instead of a Weihnachtsmarkt. That literally means "Christ Child Market" and might have to do with the fact that in Germany the Christkind (or Christ child) is the one that delivers presents on Christmas night, not Santa Claus (but more on that later). But regardless of what it's called, it's still the same thing.

The Nürnberger Christkindlesmarkt is probably the most famous in Germany. I'm not entirely sure why, but I can confirm, it is well deserved. 

Luckily, living less than an hour away, I got to visit the Nürnberg market on more than one occasion last year. But on particular visit sticks out as the absolute coldest I can remember. Now, I couldn't tell you exactly what the temperature was, just that Gemma and I were so cold we bought Glühwein just to hold on to something warm and spent 30 minutes walking through a grocery store just to get out of the cold. 

Even after we lost feeling in all our extremities, were still able to enjoy the perfect Christmas atmosphere at the market. I mean, set in the idyllic Nürnberg market square, how could we not?

The absolute best part of the Nürnberger Christkindlesmarkt, though, is hidden around the corner from the main market. Now, most people wouldn't really call Nürnberg's sister city market the best part, but most people don't come from (well, almost come from) one of Nürnberg's sister cities - Atlanta! 

I almost peed my pants with excitement when I saw the Atlanta stand! When I proudly told the girl working the stand that I was from the area, she did not seem nearly as excited as I had hoped. I then spent the next 20 minutes pointing at every item for sale and going "oh! I know that!" And for those 20 minutes, I forgot just how cold it really was. 

O Tannenbaum

The most wonderful thing about Christmas in Germany is all the Weihnachtsmärkte (that means Christmas Markets). Basically every city and town has one - whether it's big or small, old or new it's almost impossible to travel in Germany in the month of December and not see a Weihnachtsmarkt. 

The Dortmunder Weihnachtsmarkt opened its stands a week before the normal first Advent opening of most other markets. And for good reason - covering almost half of the city center, Dortmund boasts one of the largest Weihnachtsmarkts in all of Germany. With that much to see and buy, you might need the extra week!

Even better? It starts about 50 feet away from my front door. I get to see the Christmas market every day when when I leave my apartment. And although this takes its toll on my wallet and self control, it's so awesome to be in the middle of the action.

But even amidst all the excitement, one things stands out above all the rest at the Dortmunder Weihnachtsmarkt. At 45 meters tall (that's almost 150 feet in American speak), in the heart of the Christmas market stands the world's tallest Christmas tree (Guinness Book of World Records approved).

This baby started going up about 4 weeks before the market opened and lights up the city every night with it's 48,000 lights. And the locals are quite proud of this achievement! 

Dortmund has the tallest

a few of my favorite things...

"What do you like so much about Germany?"

I get this question all the time - from students, from teachers, from friends - everybody seems to want to know what it is about Germany that keeps me coming back for more. Honestly, the biggest factor is the language. After years of studying German, I've become a bit of a language nut. But, still, there is something more...

So I decided to make a list of a few of my favorite things in Germany.

Bike Culture

Having already ridden my bike for 4 years at UGA on the less-than-biker-friendly campus, I was very excited to get to Germany where biking is a common means of transportation for more than just the eco-friendly hipster, poor student, or exercise enthusiast.

In Germany every road and/or sidewalk has a clearly marked bike lane.

Drivers are used to driving along side bikers.

There are more bike racks at school than parking spots.

Biking here is more than just a great transportation option, it's a completely legitimate and acceptable way to get around.

There's always something going on

It doesn't matter if you're in big city or small town, if there is a center or even just a "platz" there will be something going.

In fall you can find special fall markets in Nürnberg or a small festival in Fürth, for example

In December you can't go 2 feet without running into a Christmas market.

Throughout any normal week there are always regular farmer's markets in the city center ready to sell you fresh meats and vegetables.

Whether it's a big event or a normal market, where there is a city center, there is always something going on!

Christmas Markets

Ok, so this one is extremely seasonal, but it is such a great part of German culture!

The entire Christmas tradition and atmosphere is something everyone can enjoy.

who cares about the sub-freezing temperatures, heavy snowfall or biting wind - where there is Glühwein, hand-made crafts, and Christmas lights I'll be there!

Ice cream

Even though it's technically Italian gelato - the ice cream in Germany is a real treat.

Maybe you just want a scoop of Stracciatella (my favorite) or a elegantly arranged dessert cup (like the banana rum ice cream cup I had on Friday).

It's really no wonder the ice cream shops are always buzzing with activity even in the dead of winter.

the drinking culture

Anyone who knows me shouldn't be surprised to see this in here.

And no, I don't mean drinking culture like "YEAH, BEER 24/7 LET'S DRINK!"

(although, from what I've seen it does seem completely normal to order a beer at 11am...)

I actually mean exactly the opposite. I've found here when you go out for the night, or even if you just want to enjoy a beer with friends in the afternoon, you're not surrounded by crazy drunks who only know how to drink 5 beers at a time.

There is no real binge drinking culture here - and I find that refreshing!

(for the record, Oktoberfest is not a good example of the actual drinking culture in Germany)

Of course these aren't the only things I love about Germany - but it's definitely a start! And ultimately, my favorite thing isn't something I can take a picture of or write down. It's just sort of a feeling, a comfort, an atmosphere maybe...

You'll just have to come visit to find out!